Subversive Malting & Brewing

A recent trip to Subversive Malting & Brewing in Catskill for lunch was a true joy. Subversive has been in their current location since 2019 and opened their doors to the public the following year.

Since their opening, they have dramatically altered the brewery landscape in the area. Among their many impressive aspects, the one that stands out the most is that they produce their own malts utilizing the traditional craft of floor malting. If you weren’t aware, a very small number of breweries across the country produce their own malts.

What is floor malting?

Believe me, I had no idea myself until I walked into Subversive Malting & Brewing.

Floor malting involves germinating a thin layer of steeped grains on a solid floor made of either stone or concrete. The grain is continually raked and turned to keep the grains loose and aerated. As you can imagine, this practice is very labor-intensive and time-consuming, which is why most breweries opt not to use this method. To give a frame of reference for labor and time, floor malting typically takes 10 to 11 days, whereas commercial malting can be completed by machinery as quickly as 8 days.

This is a large part of what makes Subversive so special. Their ability to manage their malts allows them a freedom few breweries have and therefore affords them greater creativity. They brew a range of traditional beer styles, but also seek to create beers that don’t necessarily fit into a traditional style box. And the in-house malting aids them in this endeavor.

I went with a 4-pour flight of Rust, Field Feast, Forbidden Fruit, and Dark Harvest.

Rust, an American Brown Ale coming in at a 5.8% ABV was first up. A beautiful soft brown amber in color with a roasty nose. This was such a well-done ale, one of the best I’ve had in quite some time. Malt-forward, smooth, and delicious. I would be happy drinking this any day.

Next was Field Fest, a mixed-culture farmhouse ale aged on Yarrow at a 5.5% ABV. It poured a cloudy golden color and contained a very unique taste; funky, hoppy, and a little tart. It’s nicely balanced with a smooth finish. It wouldn’t be an everyday choice for me, but I appreciate the inventiveness!

Third in my flight was the Forbidden Fruit Black Currant Sour which comes in at 6.0% ABV. A lovely pale purple color, a little low on the sourness level, and not a ton in the way of fruit flavor. That said, it has a nice lightness to it which makes it refreshing and easy to drink.

Have you ever had a beer slushie?

Word on the street is that they turn this sour into a beer slushie in the warmer months. I’ll definitely stop back to give that a try on a nice hot July day.

The last in my flight was the Dark Harvest Stout brewed with 100% house-roasted malts. This stout has a 6.8% ABV and a gorgeously rich brown color. This is a once-a-year offering from Subversive Malting & Brewing, so there are slight variations in every batch. This year, they added a greater amount of flaked oats to up the creaminess. It has a nice chocolate nose and a great follow-up on tasting. Dark malt with a slight coffee bitterness and a sweet chocolate balance. A perfectly nice and smooth-drinking stout for a cold winter’s day.

Who’s Hungry!?

And now onto my lunch at Subversive Malting & Brewing, which was nothing short of amazing. The food menu is limited to about a dozen items in total. When I encounter a smaller menu, I think the guys in the kitchen must have their items down to a science. This time, that was absolutely the case.

I had the double smash burger and fries. I added on extra cheese because cheese is one of my main food groups. You place the order at the bar and they’ll give you a number to take back with you to your table. Your food will be delivered when ready. An older gentleman from the kitchen brought my burger out, it was steaming hot and dripping with cheese. The more bites I took, the more the flavors of the burger gloriously intensified.

The kitchen has a small window that looks out into the taproom. As I inhaled my burger the gentleman who brought it to me caught my eye and gave me a thumbs up. As my mouth was full of food all I could do was return the gesture with a thumbs up of my own.

He came by afterward and mentioned he was only checking on me earlier to ensure that I was allowing myself time to breathe between bites. We both laughed, and he said I’m glad you enjoyed your burger. I said I most certainly did.

Two big TVs have recently been placed in the taproom which is a nice addition for the sports fans who stop by for a beverage.

Although the taproom at Subversive Malting & Brewing is small in size it’s a great use of space and feels like a family gathering spot.

There is also a large, heated tent adjacent to the taproom with ample seating, and it’s dog-friendly! In the summer months, there are numerous spots outside for enjoying time with friends.

It’s a definite must stop when you’re in the area!

A Little Bit Extra

If you’re planning a visit to Subversive Malting and Brewing don’t forget to check out the scenery along the way! The Catskill Mountains have some of the most picturesque landscapes in NY with an abundance of hiking trails 39 Best Catskills Hiking Trails | A Guide to Our Favorite Upstate NY Hikes (greatnortherncatskills.com). There are also a ton of fantastic festivals in the area year-round but the highlight for me is the East Durham Irish Festival in May this festival will be in its 47th year for 2024 and is always a memory maker, for more information visit 47th Annual East Durham Irish Festival | Great Northern Catskills of Greene County.